Millésime 2021

A paradoxical, rather late year, with a climate full of records and contrasts. 2021 if often referred to as the “Vigneron Vintage”. The expression reflects the vigilance, adaptation and technical mastery required to finally achieve a wine that equals the finest classic vintages of 15 years ago.

A very cool spring followed an exceptionally mild winter. Vegetation was already promising and well advanced when frost suddenly struck on the night of 7-8: the wind had stopped. This widespread episode was catastrophic for many terroirs and crops throughout France. Châteauneuf-du-Pape was protected by one of the essential characteristics that makes it a Cru: its wind dominated microclimate. The Mistral chases away frost and the proximity of the Rhone River softens the atmosphere. When the wind picked up again the very next day, it all but eliminated any danger to the earliest grape varieties and plots.

It was mainly the edges of the vineyard that were affected. Temperatures of -1.5°C were recorded here (compared with-7°C in other part of Vaucluse). The summer that followed featured a few very hot spells (mid-June, late July and mid-August), but was not scorching. Rainfall in early August enabled the grapes to ripen without excessive water stress.

The vegetative cycle was longer than usual, lengthened by fairly cool summer nights. The grapes ripened beautifully and complexly, with more heterogeneous yields due to plots affected by spring frost. By early September, the vineyards were in perfect health, spared from mildew and naturally not very susceptible to powdery mildew, thanks to the almost permanent wind.

The harvest mobilized all the know-how and adaptability of the winegrowers. The equinox storms slowed the pace of picking. Harvesting habits sometimes had to be modified to adapt to the vagaries of the weather. The delay in some plots was made up for by thinning out the leaves: this accelerates berry ripening while preserving their qualitative potential by removing certain leaves from the stock. The last plots were harvested in early October.

When the first presses came out, the degrees were slightly lower than usual, the juices were intensely coloured and the acidity was very present. This was the promise of good ageing potential, for fresh wines that can also be enjoyed young because of their balance. Although quantities are smaller than usual due to the spring frost, quality, character and potential are still there.

The reds have structure, freshness and fruit. With peppery and woody notes, the aromatic intensity is based on black and red fruits and candied olives. Powerful and elegant, the palate is sustained by numerous, tight, nervous and very silky tannins. The persistence is long and fresh, with pepper and silky tannins. A potential worthy of the great classics, well endowed with freshness, over twenty years or so.

The whites are bright and fresh, with lively, well-defined aromas. The intensity of white flowers and yellow fruit is well marked, with hints of aniseed and fine spices on the woody ageing. Roundness, perhaps a little less present than usual, is accompanied by a vibrant freshness that accompanies the tasting from start to finish.